Italy Family Travel Guide Part 4 – Florence & Tuscany

“And the voices in the waves are always whispering to Florence, in their ceaseless murmuring, of love – of love, eternal and illimitable, not bounded by the confines of this world, or by the end of time, but ranging still, beyond the sea, beyond the sky, to the invisible country far away! 
– Dombey and Son, Charles Dickens

We chased the rain throughout our entire trip across Italy, and we nearly chased it off completely. Although the forecast had predicted showers nearly every day, we were staying one step ahead of it. We had clear skies in Venice and dry feet in St. Mark’s square. The sun shone down on us in Rome, illuminating every sacred corner and gleaming off the 16th-century basalt streets. And when we boarded the train to Tuscany, the forecast looked promising. The rain ended up holding off for 24 more hours, giving us a glorious day wandering sun-drenched hills and ancient walled cities, before falling in an ethereal drizzle that turned the city of Florence into a living watercolor. That rain ended up becoming the perfect filter through which I snapped my favorite photo from the trip, and it set the stage for a comical hike in Lake Como. But I’m getting ahead of myself. We’re here to talk about the Tuscan region and Florence, so let’s start there … 

Our group (two families totaling 4 adults and 8 kids) arrived at the Santa Maria Novella Train Station in Florence from Rome in the late afternoon. Leo and Alessandro with Tusci Car Service shuttled us to a local grocery store where we filled up on fare for our stay. We then made our way to Castle of Valle, our home for the next few days. Pietro, the homeowner, and his son met us to show us around the property. Castle of Valle is a medieval castle in the Chianti region, complete with surrounding olive groves, watch towers and a wine cellar. We were enamored with its beauty and history, and we spent our first evening settling into the castle and enjoying a quiet night.

Day 1 – Monteriggioni & San Gimignano

The next morning we awoke to the sun peeking through scattered clouds and the promise of sunshine permeating the Tuscan hills. Leo and Alessandro picked us up and whisked us to Monteriggioni, a charming medieval walled town where the locals are as welcoming as the handmade wares are beautiful.

Reluctant to leave, we were soon back in the car headed to a private lunch and wine tasting at Fontaleoni. Nestled into the hills surrounding San Gimignano, Fontaleoni was established in 1959. The fruit is harvested by hand, and the vineyard exercises organic practices to cultivate the finest quality grapes. We booked a lunch tasting, which included a wine cellar tour, a tasting of 5 wines and a traditional Tuscan lunch on the patio overlooking terraced hills.

Following lunch, Leo and Alessandro transported us to the charming village of San Gimignano where we spent the remainder of the afternoon and early evening wandering the medieval streets, perusing handmade wares and sampling local gelato.

Day 2 – Florence

Day 2 started with the allure of Florence drawing us. This was the day we would climb the 463 steps to the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome in the Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral and would step inside Accademia to lay eyes upon Michaelangelo’s David. Even the arrival of a fine drizzle couldn’t dampen our spirits.

We met our tour guide outside the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella and then walked those ancient Renaissance streets to one of the world’s oldest pharmacies. Founded by Dominican friars shortly after 1221, Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella used medicinal herbs to make remedies for various ailments, most notably during the bubonic plague. The pharmacy still sells fragrance and skincare creations inspired by eight centuries of apothecary art. Afterward, we made our way to the shop of Riccardo Luci and his handmade marbled paper wares. We then grabbed a quick bite at All’Antico Vinaio, which is known to sell the most famous sandwich in Florence, before getting in line for our tour time at Accademia.

As we entered La Galleria Dell’Accademia di Firenze, we found ourselves surrounded by works of the great Italian artists. Then we turned a corner, and there he was. Standing stately, unmoving and unchanging, Michelangelo’s David commands attention. I was struck quiet, moved by the juaxaposition of a humble respect for the masterful artistry and an awe-inspired marvel at what has oft been cited the world’s most-perfect sculpture.

Following our time at Accademia, we made our way to Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral for a vigorous climb to the top of Filippo Brunelleschi’s dome. Completed in 1426 (construction on the dome began in 1420), the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore is an engineering marvel. The octagonal stone and brick structure rises 171 feet above the ground and spans 144 feet. The structure is comprised of an interior dome set into an exterior dome. The interior ceiling of the dome features the work of two artists, Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari, depicting scenes from The Last Judgment. It is an imposing, convicting scene to behold as one makes the trek to the top of the cupola. The dome cannot be accessed without an advance reservation. So if you’re heading to Florence, make sure you book the Brunelleschi Ticket.

We began the climb with much excitement and a little apprehension. The view from the balcony looking up at The Last Judgment and down into the cathedral is a bit dizzying, and I was worried our youngest children may get weary, but they endured and even outpaced the adults most of the time. Finally, as we stepped atop the 463rd step and walked onto the walkway, we took in one of the most beautiful views in all of Europe.

We finished the day browsing shops as rain gently fell on the Florentine streets. Then as the day waned and twilight fell, we retreated to Castle of Valle for our last night before embarking to Lake Como.

Have you traveled Italy? Share your thoughts on your favorite Italian cities! And stay tuned for the Italy Family Travel Guide Part 5 – Lake Como.

FLORENCE & TUSCANY TRAVEL RESOURCES

SEE:
Monteriggioni
San Gimignano
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Riccardo Luci
La Galleria Dell’Accademia di Firenze
Brunelleschi’s Dome/Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral

EAT:
Fontaleoni
All’Antico Vinaio

STAY:
Castle of Valle

TRANSPORT:
Tusci Car Service

“Under the shadow of a stately Pile,
The dome of Florence, pensive and alone,
Nor giving heed to aught that passed the while,
I stood, and gazed upon a marble stone,
The laurelled Dante’s favourite seat. A throne .. ” – William Wordsworth

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